| Bangkok | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
| I make no claim to understand the cities I visit, or even to really have "seen" them in any touristy sense of the world. The most I claim is that I've stayed a few nights, walked a few streets, and come to an understanding of how I felt about the experience. Bangkok denies me even that. I planned to stay four nights here, extended it another four, and then almost extended it again before I decided that understanding my experience of Bangkok would be a matter of months and years, not days and weeks. The city is too big, too varied, and far too disturbing for me to easily come to grips with. To start with, there are three categories of pictures that I did not take in Bangkok: 1. Pictures of crowded markets Although crowded street markets are a Bangkok staple, pulling out an expensive camera in the middle of one is just shouting for the pickpockets to gather. What's odd is that this is true in almost any large city, but only in Bangkok have I allowed it to deter me. There's an air of distrust that permeates Bangkok, and it's hard not get caught up in it. 2. Pictures of poor living areas Don't be fooled by the pictures -- the skyscrapers that sprout up from Bangkok are all surrounded by poor tenements. One of the major characteristics of these areas is that you can't really tell where the homes end and the public streets begin. In the clearings there tend to be single room huts and lean-tos to sleep in, for which the clearing itself is the living area. Early one morning I turned a corner and saw about twenty taxi-cabs parked along the street with the drivers and their families all sleeping on blankets on the sidewalk next to the cabs. In short, where the poor lived the entire areas were effectively private homes. I don't like to take pictures in people bedrooms without permission. 3. Pictures too disturbing to display There are plenty of beggars in Bangkok, many with deformities far outside my normal experience. I had seen people missing legs and arms before, but never a man who had all of his fingers chopped off, or a woman who had to lift growths off her face to see. I had certainly never seen a man dressed in rags, with no legs, dragging himself up the middle of the sidewalk on a crowded street. Here are some pictures I did take: |
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| This is the Baiyoke sky building, the tallest building in Thailand at 94 stories. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| The southern view off of the Baiyoke sky tower. I believe it is politely known as 'haze', but I would have to say that is smog, and a lot of it. Imagine L.A. on the worst day of the year, and you have a pleasant day in Bangkok in December. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| I'm sure an 88th story revolving platform sounded like a great idea when they were building the Baiyoke sky tower. This is what it sounds like now. There are certain noises I don't like to hear when I'm 88 stories in the air.... |
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| This is your average city street in Bangkok. Apartments (grimy), wires (lots) and foliage (green). | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| There are canals that flow off of the main river all the way throughout Bangkok, and where they join there are these arrangements for scooping the flotsam out of the water. The white and green layer is the surface of the water, and the three devices on the right are conveyor belts equipped with large combs to lift the debris out. The river is to the left, the canal to the right. Unfortunately I never got to see them turned on. |
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| This is the sidewalk of Sukhumwit road, as it looks every night. This impromptu market goes on for a half mile in either direction. If we were adhering to movie cliches, there would have to be an exciting motorcycle chase down these sidewalks, with people diving out of the way left and right. The scary thing is, you probably wouldn't notice it if it happened. |
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| I was staying at a "3-star luxury resort hotel" in the middle of Sukhumvit. It was $15/night, and needless to say a fire sprinkler system was right out of the question. It was nice to see that their emergency lighting had battery backup, though. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| This beggar girl had staked out a spot on a pedestrian bridge near my hotel. For six days, day and night, every time I crossed that bridge she silently bowed her head and offered her cup. For six days I shook my head silently and kept moving. On the day I was leaving I found her sleeping, took this picture, and left all of my change in her cup. This is the only beggar I gave money to while I was Bangkok. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| I was relieved to find out that Bangkok is not all skyscrapers, temples, and slums. This is Lumphini park, one of the many large open spaces spread throughout the city. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Yet another example of a brief english statement accompanied by rafts of Thai and kanji. If anyone can give me a literal translation of the Chinese, I'd be fascinated... | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| You know those long hot summer days when all the dogs do is lay around napping? It's like that *every day of the year* in Bangkok. I don't think I ever saw a dog get up while I was there. |
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| Different parts of the city seem to cater to tourists from different areas of the world. This restaurant was one of hundreds of it's type in the west Asian neighborhood.. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| This was in the Chinese section of the city, and is the place I may very well stay the next time I'm in Bangkok. The International Buffer is an absolutely fantastic value, and serves food from at least 10 countries, none of which are European or American. It's obviously meant to be an Asian version of the Westin hotel chain, with a similar level of service. I wonder if Westin owns it? Or for that matter, if it owns Westin? |
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| This kiosk was just sitting here by a freeway offramp. The was no building to go with it. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| Hawking is a major occupation in Thailand, and were it not for restricted areas, you would never get any peace or quiet. I didn't have much use for the hawkers this time around -- I have no place to send souvenirs, and I prefer to buy my food from someone I can find later if we need to discuss sell-by dates. |
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| This was by far the oddest thing I found in a street market. It was also the only thing I only saw for sale(?) a single time in a single place. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||
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| I love these boats. The entire drive and steering mechanism is a recovered car engine mounted on a pivot, with a propellor rod attached to drive shaft and a large pole welded to the other side for steering. Unfortunately I couldn't find one who's driver was willing to let me have a go. Maybe next time. |
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| I sat and watched these guys for a while. Apparently the ground is soaked extensively with water in preparation, because the big tube just slowly sinks directly into the earth when the crane lowers it. For the last four or five feet, mud comes pouring up out of the center of the tube. A smaller tube (wielded by the smaller crane in the lower right of the first picture) is used to excavate the earth from inside of the larger tube, using a claw like arrangement on its bottom end. At this point I'm not sure exactly what happens. Either concrete is poured directly into the big tube, which is then removed, or the tube is removed after the earth has dried and concrete is poured then. Either way, the holes end up as the pilings for a new building. |
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| This is appeared to be your basic warning sign that children were at play nearby. I find it friendlier than it's American counterpart. | ||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||||